Lanvin, like many others this season, is looking to the past to find the beauty of the present. For winter 2023, Bruno Cialelli made the history of the house (as it is still the oldest fashion house operating in Paris) by adapting elements of both the 1940s and 1980s, treatments and references to make the collection feel timeless and thus contemporary at the same time.
The Renaissance – The Age of Jeanne Lanvin often reflects on herself – and this season she comes into play. With this mishmash of eras, it’s possible to make a collection that looks complicated, but Sialelli proves that eras can work harmoniously.
The 80’s dungarees long ago resembled polka dots, wool and silk were rich in color and texture in the 18th century, and velvet only continues to shed this level of minimalism. Sequins, crystals, handmade embroideries, bouclé tweed with Technicolor swirls of guava and bubblegum, as well as various greens, lipstick reds and golds, all work together to deliver Lanvin’s vision of vintage-inspired clothing, cut for today.
Sometimes such references are surprisingly subtle – metallic blue leather gloves gently enhance a double-breasted coat, and wine-red cloaks serve to air in a flask, à la Renaissance. Croc-lined leather coats are both 40’s and 80’s made with determination and style, as is the flight jacket that evokes thoughts of function and a edgy style borrowed from your father in the 80’s.
The Lanvin Winter 2023 collection is an exploration of everything that makes the house. Check it out for yourself in the gallery above.
Elsewhere, you can find all the Paris Fashion Week FW23 shows here
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