In the year It’s 2022, but the fashion industry still hasn’t solved a long-standing issue—representation on all levels of fashion, including beauty. Last September’s fashion month, several black models came forward with shocking stories about hair and makeup management backstage.
For LA-based model Taylor Larzo, the five shows she’s walked for this year’s New York Fashion Week have, so far, been her worst. She took to Instagram to share the health of her hair pre- and post-show, which ended up being so poor that cutting it all off was her only option.
“I’ve been cutting and growing, but this time, it wasn’t by choice. Someone else would put their hands in and that’s why it was so hard for me to cut. “
Model Raven Scheider also shared a tik tok video of non-black hairdressers trying to pull out her hair to attach a synthetic ponytail. The video was eventually picked up by talk show host Sherry Shepherd.
Shepherd recounts an unfortunate experience earlier in her career when a hairdresser thought it was too greasy and poured face powder on her hair and then dried it with a blow dryer. As a result, she couldn’t make the show and the team had to call in a black hairdresser to help fix it.
She ends her segment with two issues that are not addressed to black models and actresses: the helplessness they feel from every situation and their inability to speak up or advocate for themselves, “weakened by the fear of being labeled as difficult to work with.” He said.
Alongside these pressing issues in black models’ fashion, there are cultural issues that further complicate their relationship with hair.
“For hair to be considered ‘beautiful’ in the black community, it has to be long or a certain length. If not, you get called names,” says Larzo.
This concept is often in direct conflict with what makes black female models have long or successful careers in fashion. Some of the top black models like Adut Akech, Aweng Chul, Maria Borges and Linisi Feliz have chosen to shave their hair completely or keep it short so that they can manage it on set.
The plot thickens, especially when you look at the particular shade of black, a model enters, because it greatly affects how short or short the hair should be. Usually dark black models wear a more shaved look, light or mixed black models, which tend to be a bit messy due to their hairstyle, can be worn longer.
There are four main types of hair – 1 – straight, 2 – wavy, 3 – curly and 4 – tightly coiled – but all but 1 have additional levels, a, b and c. Black people often fall into 3 and 4 and can also have a mixture of several types, which require more attention and different writing techniques than 1 and 2.
Larzo explains, “My hair is a 4c and needs a lot of care, oiling and conditioning, but the texture is not the same everywhere.
Natural hair specialist and stylist Susan Oludele says, “To style black hair, you need to know exactly how to care for black hair and how natural hair works.
That awareness is incredibly important and influential models like Naomi Campbell have been constantly speaking out in recent years.
In the year In a 2016 interview with Teen Vogue, she said, “I go back to shows and there will be stylists who have no experience working with black models. It’s sad to hear that color models are still having the same problems years later.
According to research by The Fashion Spot, model “representation” on the runway is improving (though many would argue that it won’t be until after 2020. But that trend is far behind when it comes to directors, hair and makeup teams, and stylists).
These individuals are just as important as their representational needs because they have a huge impact on the way black models are seen, or whether they can express their full selves on the runway.
Andrea Samuels, a makeup artist and hairstylist with over a decade of experience, started hairstyling midway through her makeup career because she saw many times when black talent didn’t get the attention and care they needed. He inspired her to help where she could.
“If you’re in a position where a black model’s hair isn’t treated properly, come in,” says Samuels. “Unfortunately, black hair and culture are accepted aesthetically but not always cared for or cared for by black models. The real issue happens after the show is over, because the texture of curly and coiled hair needs moisture, heat protection, conditioning treatments and proper care to restore it to optimal health.
Larzo added, “It seems like they often want our skin in clothing, but they don’t want all of us.” It seems that there are not enough advocates for us, from the agents to the back of the team.
The hard truth about the industry is that many black hair or makeup artists are either over-hyped or under-recognized. The overbooked artists are usually unavailable because they service A-list clients or campaigns, and the unknowns typically stay under-the-record.
“There’s a need for more people of color or any artist who has a good understanding of all skin tones and hair textures in film, TV and the runway. In general, we’re very talented and versatile, but the unknowns need to go into the classroom to have consistent work,” Samuels explained. .
Ouludele and Samuels both understand how challenging it can be for black hair or makeup artists to find work, but stress that they need to get involved to help shape the industry for the better.
When it comes to dealing with it, Larzo bluntly says, “I have to sit and live, because there’s no way around it. I’ve never been one for wigs either.
For Samuel, seeing the positive potential is what she cares most about. “The disparity behind the scenes is frustrating, but things are slowly changing. It’s not about who you know, it’s about who knows. People who spread your name around the room for opportunities. [are] So key, that’s why I’m a big advocate for networking.
