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‘I see the presence of Bollywood in Indian fashion as an intrusion into the creative space’: Designer Shahab Durazi

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November 23, 2022
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‘I see the presence of Bollywood in Indian fashion as an intrusion into the creative space’: Designer Shahab Durazi
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With over three decades of experience in the kit, Fashion designer Shahab Durazi recently returned to the ramp after a gap of 12 years. For that, he opted for no ordinary stage and set, as the maestro looked back on his namesake label, nearly 10 years in the making, with his recently concluded FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week. As expected, the event was a grand affair, featuring models in fabulous creations that scream nostalgia.

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In an exclusive interview with indianexpress.comShahab Durazi about his latest show, the idea behind presenting a retrospective, how (and in what ways) Fashion industry It has changed in the last decade, the travel, the trend of celebrities and many more. Read the edited excerpts below.

What led you back to the ramp after 12 years, and what kept you away all these years?

I always prefer to do very few scenes. To tell a new story, or sometimes to revisit an old one, though I believe they’ve come up with a twist. To me, the narrative must be inspiring and worthy of a respected platform, otherwise your work will come across as wishy-washy, repetitive and lack creative flair. There is no place for complacency or mediocrity in the creative space. It demands your audience’s undivided attention. If I believe my narrative can hold the attention of my target audience, I will follow the appropriate platform to present it.

The credit for my return must go to Mr. Sunil Sethi (Chairman, FDCI) He has been persistently asking me to show my work as he feels that the young generation of designers, stylists, models, etc. should see and understand Shahab Durrazi’s art. Having said that, my fellow designers, like Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Sunit Varma, Anamika Khanna, and many others, over the years, told me that I should put my work out there as it deserves to be seen on a big stage. Models, stylists, photographers and even choreographers have spoken out. A special mention must go to my daughters Ameesha and Ashiya who have helped me showcase my work and increase the visibility of my brand over the years.

In all these years, you (being an insider, yet watching from afar) feel that fashion shows have changed; How would you describe the changes?

There are big changes. social media It has changed the way we perceive fashion and most of the time it is good, but sometimes the content is questionable as there is too much focus on brand building and the product gets sidelined. In this fast-paced rat race, slow fashion has been lost and the aim of this presentation was to reinforce the importance of slow fashion, timelessness and quality of ideas.

Shadab Durazi Shadab Durazi interview A model walks the runway at the Sahab Durazi show during the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2022 in Mumbai. (Photo: FS Images/FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week/RISE Worldwide)

Tell us about the featured collection and the idea of ​​bringing it back.

The capsule collection is a reflection of the brand, dating back 10 years. Nostalgia is the main theme – mainly borrowed from the era of vintage chic of the 40s and 50s, which inspires many details from the English dandy dress code, cummerbunds, bows decorated with pearls and silk ribbons, etc. i’ve got. To stay stuck Neutral sounds, predominantly black, both in my personal style and in my work, unwavering to this day. This collection exudes the mystique of black, combined with white, cream, bone, ecru, dove, satin and silver. We also build on the strengths of the brand that have been used so well in the past, which I believe is of great value to a younger audience who may not be fully aware of our brand. Art from the Renaissance and Rococo movements in the form of large French motifs are a piece of history that inspires the collection. Overall, the capsule advocates the importance of slow fashion and timelessness to challenge the concept of trends and seasons, gender and genre. Simply put, it’s classic couture with modern twists.

Social media has become a window to fashion trends and styles. How much do you incorporate it into your life and work?

My fashion is aesthetic as well as sensual. Vintage, nostalgia The attempt to address the ever-evolving style and aesthetics – in clothing that is true to the essence of fashion and the desire of many, I have and will live this timeless thing. Although I am far from trends, I have been able to shape our own standards in the modern industry, which is why we always look back to our past for inspiration. Structural excellence and timeless appeal are what we strive for at ‘Shahab Durazi’.

However, I agree that social media and the internet in general have helped amplify these trends. Y2K fashion Going old-school is just back with Gen Z’s affinity for it, and there are plenty of trends that will continue to make a comeback, and thanks to social media, we’ll all be a part of it very quickly.

You were one of the first designers to have celebrity shop tops, introducing a concept that continues to apply today. Did you think it would be such a big event where the showtops are talked about more than the designers and their creations?

Today is a truly interconnected world. Above and beyond the range Bollywood shoplifters are strutting down the runway., the industry has evolved to feature creators and even social media celebrities. A healthy mix of supermodels, movie stars and opinion leaders are becoming part of the runway to create the wow factor that audiences want to experience with each show, and I’m excited to bring that to life in my presentation. all right.

What do you aim to achieve with this climb back? Is this a prequel to Shadab Durazi 2.0?

Returning to the runway It is not an easy task after 12 years. My work hasn’t been seen much in a while so the collection speaks for itself, although who wears it will influence its meaning. I drew on historical events and time periods throughout the design process to convey ‘nostalgia’ as the focus of the collection, so some pieces feature designs from French art movements and I borrowed from 40s English menswear. We made sure the collection was strong on the seams and used falsework techniques to create a balanced and symmetrical look. Embellishments of all kinds appear throughout, some creating illusions, some adding texture. You’ve seen detailed floral film work along with intricate pearl patterns and embellished cornice work as a popular design element to add an edge to the generally soft fabrics. The collection is an expression of the unique craftsmanship that Shahab Durazi stands for. This is the start and more to come, hopefully.

The Indian fashion industry has always been closely associated with Bollywood. But you have always kept a distance – what is the reason behind the same, and do you think it has hindered your professional journey in any way?

I have seen the presence of Bollywood Indian fashion As an intervention as a space of creativity that should nurture and nurture skills and craft. Unfortunately, the presence of actors has derailed the course that modern Indian fashion should follow. The fashion platform should be limited to presenting and promoting the designer and his craft. Any distractions are a disservice to fashion and the industry as a whole. As opposed to a designer’s work, when the target audience is there to see a Bollywood star, it defeats the purpose of the platform.

The pandemic has had a huge impact on the fashion industry. What would you say was the biggest lesson?

I think The pandemic has instilled in us the value of late fashion.It supports an environmentally friendly supply chain of quality goods to create low carbon footprints and smaller supply cycles through the conservation and efficient use of diverse resources.

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