Nynne’s spring/summer 2023 collection ranges from new versions of the Diana dress to simple … [+]
Created by Danish-born Nene Kunde, the fashion house Nene is on a carefully planned trajectory: a modern luxury brand set to explore the American market in 2023 with exaggerated silhouettes.
Kunde in the year The brand was adopted in Paris, which is still Nine’s flagship store, where it is seen four times a year.
In the early days, Nine—age 29—was overwhelmed, with practical issues like stock levels and recouping costs, such as keeping the online channel on arm’s length.
“As we expand now, we have online pre-orders and we have a regular e-commerce store from 2020, before the pandemic starts,” Kunde said. The service allows customers to pay in advance for unissued pieces. Fans of the brand will also be able to wear the latest pieces before anyone else, as the collections will be available at the same time as they arrive at retail outlets.
“Pre-orders are a good way to gauge what consumers want at the moment and give us guidance on how much we need to produce—because no one wants to buy unsold inventory or excess fabric,” says Kunde. “It’s also a more careful way of shopping.”
There is a worthy sustainability angle in it; To produce zero waste. The fashion industry has been heavily criticized for its wasteful process, and Scandinavian designers in particular have been at the forefront of making changes. Copenhagen Fashion Week and the related trade show CIFF (Copenhagen International Fashion Fair) are considered drivers of sustainability strategies and the go-to place for truly sustainable clothing.
Environmental awareness
Nene Kunde has come a long way since presenting at Vancouver Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019. … [+]
Despite still being a young label, Nine has sourced 60% of the fabrics used for its Fall/Winter 2021 collection from long-wear quality fabrics that are either recycled or certified sustainable. The brand will gradually move towards fully sustainable sourcing; From technical fabrics to wool.
Nini’s signature line, the Diana dress (with an elasticated waist and shoulders) suits many body types but is also a lesson in sustainable design. The company creates pieces that can be worn in a versatile way, whether you wear them for casual or formal situations. Kunde says that the Diana dress is suitable for the office as well as for a wedding or a walk in the park. This means customers can buy less and wear less – if they choose.
The company’s approach to B2B and online marketing is what she recommends for any startup high-end account, but it depends on what’s being produced. “Some brands are only online, in our case, buyers need to see the fabrics and feel the textures, especially retail buyers who want to have a physical experience before placing an order,” Kunde said.
Those partners include department stores, fashion websites, high-end concept stores and independent boutiques. Nine is listed alongside some luxury big hitters like LVMH’s Le Bon Marché in Paris. Vestibule in Zurich, Switzerland; Bella Donna in Regensburg, Germany; and Fraenschuh in Kitzbühel, Austria. It also has an online presence with the high-end Milanese department store Rinascente; Florence-based Luisa Viaroma; and Beunica in the UK
“These stores have been good exposure for us,” Kunde said. “You have to be in big, well-known stores because the smaller ones will follow. It’s an investment and a big risk for stores. It’s always better to buy small first and then scale up.”
Move at the right speed
Kunde is more amenable to that softer approach… building the brand in a small amount of time on a solid foundation rather than going big and bold, but not being able to sustain that down the line. During the Covid period, many retail partners have stuck with the product, which is a sure sign that it is doing something right.
Key pieces from the Autumn/Winter 2022 collection feature some of Nini’s signature styles.
“Nowadays, consumers are much less loyal to fashion brands. They shop for their clothes based on how accessible brands are on social media and online. With a little loyalty, it pays to develop a strong reputation that can cut through all the marketing hype, and Nene is doing it well.”
The brand is widely available in European stores in eight country markets and in Japan. The next step is the United States, where Nine has been selling to private customers in New York until now, and online demand is growing. There are enough email inquiries and customers to ensure Kunde’s retail business. “Being here in Europe is a big step for us as it’s more secure, but when we talk to people in America we notice they know us so that’s a market we have to explore.”
Nine Boy Coats in three styles for over $1,000.
When Kunde returned to Copenhagen from London in the summer of 2020, she agreed. Scandi fashion has a practical element to it, for example, in layered looks. What’s on the catwalk can often be incorporated directly into consumer clothing. “London has always been known for what I call ‘outside’ fashion because there are so many different cultures, but Danish fashion is also evolving with colors and textures.
The business’s current sales split is 70:30 for physical stores versus e-commerce, with the goal being 50:50. Kunde’s goal is purely from a revenue perspective because his company doesn’t have to share revenue from its own site and gets the benefit of full data access to help drive geographic expansion strategies. As a self-confessed nerd, Kunde spends a lot of time looking at data as a basis for making future plans.
“A lot of fashion designers these days think they can create a brand and people will come to them, but that’s not the case,” Kunde said. “You have to be creative and look at the middle ground, which means being creative, but you still need to sell. The data helps because you can see exactly what’s selling – which colors and styles – and which markets. It’s a great resource when you’re starting out.”
