We’ve all been reading the same headlines for weeks, maybe even months: What comes after Y2K? According to Milan Fashion Week, It’s more Y2K.. Lots more Y2K.
After the start of New York Fashion Week A show celebrating the baguette bag, Kim Jones returned to Milan to show his SS23 collection and that Fendi girl felt like she got on the plane with him. She stepped out of the club line, took off the fluffy hood that covered almost her entire face, and zipped her metallic blue jumpsuit up to her stomach! And she got into something that was comfortable for work. But she’s still clearly planning to step out later, because why not an asymmetric wool coat, a satin Fendi belt tied with a bow at the back, over a white organza dress and apple-green platform boots?
“Fendi women are strong women who are full and busy,” Jones said in a statement about the show, which was meant to be about practical, functional luxury. It looks like the woman designing it has a long to-do list scheduled weeks ago on her social calendar, but like the rest of us right now, all she really wants to do is televise it for a time that isn’t 2022. Jones’ inspiration for the collection was Karl Lagerfeld’s work for the brand between 1996 and 2002. In fact, he imagined a floral print from the Fendi archives in neon with a 2000-year-old logo and splashed it on silk dresses—some of which peeked out from brightly colored dresses that matched the interior. under
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The collection had all the Y2K effects that have dominated the runway for the past year or so: silk raver pants, mini bags that look too small, chunky anklets that feel too tight on the wrist, wedge platforms that feel too tall. to remove them almost immediately (one model actually did it halfway through her leg).
If Fendi’s show had a Y2K aesthetic you might not want to sweat in the club, Diesel’s performance immediately felt more like something you’d see at the Brooklyn Mirage (the massive, two-level, open-air Bushwick music venue where the brand held a party during NYFW to celebrate its FW22 capsule collection with Webster. The show is open to the public. It was open and about 5,000 people attended, 70% of whom, Diesel said, were under the age of 25.
And Silvia Venturini Fendi says in Fendi’s show notes, “It all comes down to the conversation around the double F, which makes us see things in couples,” Diesel’s scene takes duality a step further. According to Guinness World Records, it is the world’s largest inflatable sculpture. In a press release after the event, Glenn Martens said the men “deserve a show” and the show they got with the hand-blown glass butt plug that comes with each invitation. Even Julia Fox sat front row in a bright blue denim PVC micro mini and dyed her hair to match.
In a diesel democracy, citizens wear denim. A lot of jeans. Denim ripped with lace, denim layered in tulle, covered in croc-print. For anyone who can’t wrap their head around the low-rise jeans trend of the pre-aughts, Diesel offers some alternatives to — albeit equally divisive — favorites from the same era: tight acid-wash spaghetti strap mini-skirts, logo-printed bobby tubes, embroidered bocce coats. Everything seems anxious and incomplete; This is the kind of fashion that Gen Z spent hours searching for thrift to dress the part of someone who grew up before the hashtag.
But in Marten’s world, “everyone can be a part of Diesel. And if everyone is a part of diesel, that means we all have to practice sticking to the Y2K perspective. It’s probably good. Still in 2010 It’s 2022, but the epidemic is at least a few years down, which means we’ll finally be able to wear silk raver pants to a real rave and in person afterwards.
Tara Gonzalez is a senior fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Previously, she was a stylist at In styleFounder Commerce Editor at charming, and fashion editor at Coveter.
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