Nearly 100 dukkah saris, including those worn for the first time at the Met Gala, will be on display as part of a new large-scale exhibition exploring the contemporary revival of the garment in the UK.
The first-of-its-kind exhibition at the Design Museum, titled The Offbeat Sari, brings together more than 90 items on loan from designers and studios in India to tell the story of the so-called “fashion revolution”.
Traditionally a single, unstitched fabric, the sari reflects identity, social status, taste and function and remains an enduring part of life in South Asia today.
But what was once a common and uncomfortable garment among the youth has in recent years turned into a modern expression of identity and protest. The exhibition explores how designers and artisans in India today are evolving the way the sari is understood, designed, made and worn.
In particular, it examines the occasion when the saree will be worn for the first time at the Met Gala in New York in May 2022, marking the garment’s arrival on the global fashion stage. Designed by Sabyasachi Mukherjee and embellished with a gold Schiaparelli bodice, the saree was worn by Indian businessman and socialite Natasha Ponnawala, and made headlines around the world for its stunning mix of Indian and Western coats.
The collection will be on display in Britain for the first time and will be on display for the second time at the exhibition after being shown in Monaco last summer.
Other saris in the picture include pieces by brands like Abraham & Thakore, Raw Mango, AKAARO and Norblack Norwhite, which have been part of “the dynamic evolution and renewed relevance of the saree,” according to the Design Museum.
Visitors will also see saris experimenting with materials by designers including Amit Aggarwal, HUEMN, Diksha Khanna and Bodice. Examples include Tarun Tahiliani’s foil jersey creation for Lady Gaga in 2010 and Abu Yani Sandeep Khosla’s couture saris to be worn by Bollywood star Deepika Padukone at the 2022 Cannes Film Festival.
Alongside them, the different styles seen on the streets of Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore and elsewhere show how young urban women are embracing the saree.
The exhibition’s chief curator, Priya Kanchandani, said the sari was experiencing what was “the fastest recovery in its 5,000-year history”.
She added: “It makes the sari movement one of the most important global fashion stories of today, but little is known about its true nature beyond South Asia.”
“Urban women who previously associated the saree with clothing are turning it into a new, radical and casual piece of clothing that allows them to express themselves, while designers are experimenting with its materiality, drawing on limitless creativity.
“For me and many others, the sari has personal and cultural significance, but it is also a rich and flexible canvas for creativity that adds to the significance and ecology of Indian culture.
“With a population of 1.4 billion, India’s importance in contemporary culture is vast, and its sarees are at the forefront of the country’s undeniable imagination and fantasy, proving the importance of Indian design on a global scale.”
Offbeat Sari at Design Museum from From May 19 to September 17, 2023
