Denim has once again made its presence felt at the 2022 race.
Men’s Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collections shared the spotlight with Julia Fox’s double-jean collections in January.
Loose silhouettes were a very common theme in men’s jeans. Hed Mainer offers wide-leg jeans with layers and deep patch pockets. Blooming high-waisted baggy bottoms with intricate beading on the sides of the legs. Kolor kept it cool with cute jeans and distressed sweaters and Tak added distressed textures to the denim look.
Jeans with front seam details were seen in the collections of Liberal Youth Ministry, JW Anderson and Valet Studio. The twisted and ripped JordanLuca extra long jeans with seam exposed legs. Twisted denim continues to be a popular theme for Y/Project, which features a number of outfits with cleverly asymmetrical buttons.
However, it was less so for other brands. Keaton and Brunello Cucinelli are among the traditional Italian menswear brands that incorporate straight jeans into their office-friendly ranges. Clean, fuss-free washes complimented tobacco-colored blazers and tweed jackets.
At New York Fashion Week in February, designers presented versatile pieces suitable for a new hybrid of office politics. Kayte zeroed in on a denim-and-blazer cool-girl uniform with balloon-shaped jeans. Asymmetrical jeans—some with asymmetrical back pockets—add a downtown vibe to TB’s line. Dressed in black washed-out boyfriend jeans, Nicole Miller revamped her polished New York punk look.
Among Veronica Beard’s office-friendly pieces were ripped jeans and belted jackets. D-ring belts Derek Lam 10 Crosby nailed a two-tone button-front denim skirt and denim top; Brandon Maxwell also focused on simple distressed straight-leg jeans.
Denim heads have been seduced by Bottega Veneta trompe l’oeil leather jeans in Milan. The refreshed fashion house offers you-like jeans and white shirts in printed nubuck leather.
Texture, in general, was a prominent theme in the Italian brands’ collections of the season.
At Glen Martens’ first show for Diesel was a “denim fur” washed coat. Sheer layers enhance the fluid look of Versace’s low-rise wide-leg jeans. The fashion house pairs a denim corset top and mini skirt with an embroidered tweed boucle.
In Paris, brands including Dior balanced corset-inspired bodices with flared jeans. Balmain zipped up to the bust with a corset look as well as high-waisted jeans.
Fashion search engine Tag-Walk found that there were 64 percent more denim looks in spring/summer 2023 collections compared to the 2022 season, and 51 percent of designers featured the fabled fabric in their spring collections.
Denim was a leading trend in men’s collections. Designers in New York, London, Milan and Paris showed a softer approach to denim by adding unrolled wings, pleated waists, light washes and loose silhouettes.
Amiri used a sun-kissed effect on short-sleeved shirts and tailored ripped jeans. A cloudy blue shade adds softness to Craig Green’s elastic waist jeans and matching tank. The ’90s washes of light allowed Hed Mayner’s large-scale figures to take center stage.
It was here that Prada gave the green light to double-jeans, making sleeveless jackets the same vintage wash as jeans and shorts.
In the year A style reminiscent of the punk-pop music scene of the early 2000s also lent itself to collections. Cool TM layered cropped denim jackets over cropped tees and cropped shorts over exposed branded boxers. The skate-inspired long jean shorts are back. System, Amiri and Louis Vuitton were among the labels that gave jorts a second chance.
The amount of damaged denim in 2010 In 2023 it refers to the revival of the Grange. The doublet ripped slouchy jeans featured an extra long exposed zipper. Egonlab paired a slim-cut denim skirt over skinny jeans. The wrinkled ecru jeans were a bright spot in Etudes’ yellow colored jeans. In JW Anderson’s surreal collection, rips and tears in jeans and jackets exposed a layer of twill khaki.
R13 brings slow beauty to life in New York. The brand’s S/S ’23 collection features plaid flannel jumpsuits and dresses, checkerboard print graphics and a variety of gray tailored fabrics. These pieces are contrasted with white denim shorts, cropped wide leg jeans and old blue baggy jeans.
It also contrasted with the glittery party wear that many designers showed at New York Fashion Week. Pat Bo loose jeans and collarless jackets adorned with pearl baubles, beaded fringes and quilts. Alice + Olivia, a perennial fashion source, added elements like crystal fringe embellishments to cropped jeans. A dusting of white tulle adds a bridal element to some looks. White crystal embellished light wash skirts, jeans and voluminous opera length gloves by Et Ochs.
S/S ’23 collections from Europe also served denim eye candy. GCDS presents a cropped denim skirt with a crystal encrusted logo. Diamond-like crystals and crystal-encrusted red hearts with swords reflect the signature Philippe Plein denim. AZ Factory jean jackets in chevron patterned crystal-encrusted fabric.
European collections, however, saw a shift to yellow washes as Y2K, moto and grunge trends converged. Blumarine used a dirty-looking wash in its goth-dyed denim range. Wide wrap belts and brushed gold sequins adorn the Italian label’s low-rise jeans, skirts, sharp tops, strapless gowns and midi-length dresses.
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