A model wears a creation as part of the Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 collection in Paris, Monday, Jan. 23, 2023. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)
PARIS (AP) — Josephine Baker, a pioneering black woman who left the United States to find international fame in Paris in the 1920s — was Dior’s muse for the archetypal classicism collection of the old-school spring dress.
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri may not have reinvented the wheel with her carefree velvet and silk, embroidered embroidery and tiny silver brooches, but she certainly rocked it on Monday’s first day of Paris Fashion Week.
However, the first day of the show was not without controversy after Dior was criticized for inviting a Russian influencer who has been sanctioned by Ukraine. Moreover, Shiaparelli was the subject of online outrage after she showed off a fake lion’s head to beautify trophy hunting.
Here are some highlights from the first day of the spring-summer haute couture shows.
DIOR’S BAKER
In the gardens of the Rodin Museum, the perfume-scented interior featured giant sculptures by African American artist Michaeline Thomas Baker, along with other images of black American women.
The best-known tableau photographs document Baker’s extraordinary life and her many roles: as a member of the French Resistance, a civil rights activist and humanitarian, as well as a dancer and actress.
With excitement and anticipation, the guests took their seats.
According to Dior, a series of coat, bathroom-style shots depict “a cozy and intimate dressing room before the stage (bakery) entrance.” They were undeniably beautiful in dress terms, if somewhat restrained. The first came in silk velvet; The black diamond lapels hung with incredible weight. In the year In a 1950s look, it’s draped over a sleek satin swimsuit. Elsewhere, a knit-like mesh of silk and metallic beads cut a fine vintage style across a collection, also evoking a quiet feminine power. He wore it over a shiny, crushed velvet nightgown to suggest intimacy.
Later, Chiuri let her hair down a bit and wore a fringe. A baker’s day of fun is evoked in a steel-encrusted mesh dress with shimmering edges.
The collection itself remained very Parisian, although the theme suggested that the Dior clothes themselves might convey some intense racism or blackness. It was a veiled tribute to a black pioneer who fought against race, gender and citizenship throughout her life.
That said, it was surprising how many models of color walked the show — more than half of them 60 — especially as Paris Fashion Week and the luxury industry as a whole begin to grapple with a series of accusations that they are white-centric. .
MAISIE WILLIAMS plays Dior’s sister.
“Game of Thrones” star Maisie Williams looked every bit the part of the star’s images as Eartha Kitt, Nina Simone and Baker in pixie hairstyles and Dior bustiers lensed by photographers.
Williams called it “such a dream come true” to come on the show, as she plays Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior, on the highly anticipated Apple TV drama series “The New Look” — which centers on the bitter rivalry between the couturier and Gabrielle. “Coco” Chanel.
Williams, who rose to fame playing the feisty Arya Stark, told The Associated Press that “I find Dior to be something that the woman really aspires to,” calling the clothes “powerful” for women.
“The women I love to play have the qualities to match,” she said.
A sanctioned Russian influencer is invited.
Dior drew criticism for its online invitation to a Paris couture show for Yana Rudkovskaya, a Russian TV presenter who was sanctioned on Jan. 15 by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky on a list of cultural figures and propagandists suspected of supporting Russian President Vladimir Putin. Other houses are said to have refused to allow the influential Rudkovskaya to enter their shows.
Rudkovskaya posted a photo of her Dior couture party on Instagram. “How many other embargoed Russians are attending Paris Haute Couture?” some journalists asked. they asked.
SCHIAPARELI makes surreal twists
From the heyday of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, they follow glamour, exaggerated silhouettes and surreal classics.
This was the feeling of the season’s first spring-summer clothing show – and what a start! – At the Petit Palais with its majestic gold stripes, intricate jewels and front-row VIPs calling.
Designer Daniel Roseberry was on top form Monday – taking classic styles and giving them unexpected spins. A black tuxedo with stiff giant shoulders is transformed into a low-slung, space-aged jumpsuit.
A bronze driver rose like a giant oyster shell fan covering the face of the model. The stunning pearl embellishments are made of organically crystallized layers that showcase the craftsmanship of the house’s atelier.
A bolero jacket that cuts a beautiful figure with an abundance of embellished pearls – resembling wet pearls – drips naturally and probably belonged to some underwater princess.
However, the collection was a tribute to the house’s founder, a unique symbol of sensuality that has delighted audiences around the world. A giant lion head – complete with fangs and bushy mane – modeled by Irina Shayk added bite to this collection. It was a creative critique of Surrealism, but it was also a statement about the vulgarity of the use of hair.
Kylie Jenner, who sat in Schiaparelli’s front row, also wearing a 3-D lion head and a gold snakeskin bag, was later criticized online for glamorizing animal cruelty.
Iris van Herpen goes digital
Turning to digital at Paris Fashion Week, the Dutch wunderkind said of her latest couture offering: “I’m proud to announce that… instead of a traditional runway show, the brand shows a digital approach that allows for more. Creative freedom and history.
The in-person presentation was accompanied by a documentary film titled “Carte Blanche” in which she collaborated with French artist Julie Gautier – exploring how female beauty can be used as a means of control.
A thin red dress, revealing inches of sinewy flesh, resembles a venomous sea creature, while the interlocking circles evoke sharp but precious coral. Generous blue and silver fabrics draped over gowns flowed like an underwater bountiful – a touch of the award-winning Couturier’s signature organic inspiration, which has designed for artists such as Bjork.
Valley women flower
Spring was truly in the air at Giambattista Valli, whose powder pinks, canary yellows and pale turquoises mingled with shimmering florals to crown this season’s glory.
In this collection, the acclaimed Italian couturier pared down classical wardrobe pieces to an otherwise unexpected gown.
A ball gown with oversized knit, sleeves and train, considered shoulderless and inch leg. An exaggeratedly proportioned mermaid emerges from the knee in a dramatic fashion – ready for a spring wedding. It’s a great take on style, paired with a solid sleeveless crop top that reveals your midriff in a sporty way.
Flowers were also a touchstone.
The cuffs were adorned with giant roses, which reappeared in another over-the-shoulder look as if to caress the model’s head. Lots of embroidery and tulle banding on the Arabic dress to add interest to the hair.
