March 8, 2023
Despite the general strike, Paris Fashion Week ended on a high note on Tuesday. Fewer fans than usual gathered for the main shows, and it was less tight for guests, but the program opened as planned. Alongside two major houses such as Chanel and Miu Miu, some very innovative collections were presented, notably WAKE Mode, Y/Project and Avellano.
Blade Runner feeling on AWAKE Mode
Dressed in distressed baggy dresses, eyes hidden behind long fringes, or casual cargo pants or coats, the women of WAKE Mode make a statement. They were at once powerful and laid back, masculine and sophisticated, classic and eccentric. “Like a femme fatale, but relaxed. There is a very structured, comfortable element, but there is a more feminine, romantic aspect to the collection,” sums up designer Natalia Alaverdia. She said she was inspired by the atmosphere of Ridley Scott’s masterpiece. Blade Runner” as made clear by the show’s final few models, who sport the futuristic retro hairstyle of Rachel, the lead actress of the cult film.
The collection was a mix of couture cuts, geometric lines, sophisticated constructions and wonderfully tactile materials from the sleep collection. A pair of jeans are sewn together at the waist of several pairs of jeans, bright yellow sets are trimmed with plush, soft cotton wool, others are made of vinyl, ski or aged faux leather. Dresses and large handbags are made of split faux fur. Velvet and sequins added sparkle to flowing evening dresses.
Suits are constructed entirely from fabric that is split like a feather. Several garments were constructed using interlaced panels in a checkerboard fashion. Round, spherical buttons highlight long slits at the bottom of pants, run diagonally across a maxi dress, or draw a side curve on a trendy pair of cowboy pants. Huge pockets attached everywhere.
It should be mentioned that they were very attractive shoes as expensive designer items. They were made in Italy and were sometimes worn mismatched, a silver mule on the right leg, a gold one on the left. They also came covered in fur, braided leather, or decorated with gold spheres. Wake Mode is based in London and has a dozen employees. It is distributed through 60 multi-product retailers, including Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Samaritan department stores, and the USA is its main market.
Y/ project innovation deficiency
Y/Project made a stunning comeback to its Paris womenswear calendar on Tuesday, with models walking gracefully across the floor of an under-construction building, slowly evocative and endlessly repeating ad notes. ‘Lascia ch’io pianga’ air from Handel’s opera Rinaldo.
The pause between notes lasts for a few seconds and seems to swirl in an eternal whirlwind to appreciate the thousand and one thoughts and construction details that Glenn Martens put into each of his creations. There were no floating ribbons or flexible fabric effects. Martens created a dynamic movement by completely deconstructing the clothes. For example, belts, ties, necklaces and handbags all appeared to be held in a spiral and some clothes were twisted in a spiral.
A buttonhole on a jacket or shirt suddenly goes out on the opposite side at a tangent. Pants were opened along the legs and then stretched diagonally again, or they were lined with fabric and worn with excessively loose pants that left yawning gaps. The set was an anthem for creative failure.
Martens has upset his best classics, pushing the experiments even further. His famous trousers with exposed lining were reinvented this season by swapping the trouser legs for giant fairy-tale boots made from the same fabric. He also worked creatively with various garments such as unwanted tears that were sealed or tentacled around the garment or broken threads that could tear the garment completely.
As he did last season, the creative director of Italian denim label Diesel Martens has gone big on trompe l’oeil prints and denim in particular. The material was once again ubiquitous, entering the collection in large quantities in various forms, treatments, washes, prints and constructions. One wonders if Y/Project Diesel could be a couture line…
Avellano’s neo-futuristic all-latex collection
After opening Blade Runnerthe last day of Paris Fashion Week is over. Matrix. Dark glasses, long trench coats, floor-length cassock-like coats, gloved hands, stiletto-heeled boots. Also ultra-slippery leggings and jumpsuits that hug the body and legs. A string of all-latex black ensembles strutted down Avellano’s runway, seemingly replicating the characters of the popular sci-fi film through the eyes of the audience.
Making his debut at the Paris Womenswear Calendar, Toulouse-born designer Arthur Avellano focused on his favorite material and early success, from wide trousers to cropped, flowing trench coats and jackets with a neo-futuristic feel. He continues to work in latex, exploring new production methods and techniques, for example, snakeskin or latex latex, and in a glittery mesh jumpsuit, 3D printed with latex on tulle and embellished with hand-laid Swarovski crystals.
Avellano ignored menswear, introducing only two men’s looks in the collection and switching almost entirely to womenswear, with ruched sweaters that covered curves and sometimes left the back bare, funky train skirts and tunic-slit hybrids with thin straps. indicating the level of flexibility and lightness. Some of the chrome-colored items look like they were cast in metal, while the transparent latex tops look like they’re made of lightweight fabric.
Avellano has distanced itself from wholesale distribution and focuses only on made-to-measure and sharp products. The label has been a hit on red carpets ever since Kim Kardashian wore an Avellano dress. “We will never stop. We work with many stars and celebrities, but also bands and touring musicians. Arthur Avellano, who now has dozens of employees, is inundating us with requests.
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