After his Fall/Winter 2023 runway show, the document arrives as the designer rethinks his urban uniform.
Heron Preston made history this fashion week, the first and same breath homecoming. Although the practice is defined by the city’s street culture—its colors, its symbols, its armor-like imagery—it’s the label’s first show in New York. For Fall/Winter 2023, Preston envisions an underground, urban life’s ultimate form of unity: “The MTA… [It’s] The crossroads of the city. It’s where style codes and streetwear collide.”
Showgoers are invited to the open air with recycled pieces of trash: beer cans, shoe boxes, plastic water bottles – anything that can be laid out and mailed. It’s all circled and recycled, Preston using chainmail and tarp in this season’s wardrobe. He titled the show. Anything goesAnd appropriately, it was diverse: fur boots with shorts, pants with heels, safety clothes, wire clothes and ski goggles.
After the presentation, the doc caught up with Preston, who explained his cool-kid-crazy tactics, and the New York audience went with him on a newfound energy.
Morgan Baker: The invitations to your show were very special. How did you land on your concept, and how does it relate to Heron Preston’s overall ethos?
Heron PrestonLess new paper. Less new material. The invitations are a small glimpse into the bigger picture of my new sustainability practice, LED. In my book, less is more, less is better, and roundness is cool. Each invitation to the Fall/Winter 2023 show was returned from the streets of New York City.
MorganWhat would you say is the reason for this group’s unity?
A stork: The show is essentially revising Heron Preston’s DNA—which I’ve established over the years—and pushing a higher vision of convergence. Utility [and] Functional fashion is considered through the details.
LED is the pole of the collection. I was thinking about New York City. [and its] Material layers, and I started with what I personally thought was interesting. I’m trying to offer this mix and match comparison, staying true to the brand’s DNA.
MorganWhat techniques or materials did you try this season that you haven’t done before?
A stork: There is a history of denim made up of works from past seasons – this represents the idea of repairing your clothes to extend their life. The whole process looks at the past, what we have done, what we have learned, what we have done, what we have not done. We used some ready-made or locally sourced materials, including chainmail and tarps, and then combined them with canvas, leather, denim, jersey and wool.
MorganWhere do you look for inspiration?
A storkThis collection is inspired by New York and the place where the city intersects: the MTA. There is always magic because so many cultures and people meet there. [It’s] The crossroads of the city. It’s where style codes and street uniforms collide.
Morgan: What is the root of the orange signature?
A storkIt was started in 2016 by the Sanitation Department. I was reclaiming old uniforms from the cleaners to use for the project. I started examining the donated clothes and noticed their orange tags. They were the first, and after that collection was finished, I fell in love with the power of color—you really notice it, and it matches the city streets.
MorganWho are you designing for?
A storkMyself, my friends and community, hoping the rest of the world will enjoy my designs.
Morgan: What do you hope New York took away from your Fashion Week show?
A stork: I hope New York took away the power of the show — the direct, raw power. The Revival of the City.
