Photo-Illustration: By The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton
Here come the horses. We were in the riding ring of a military school on the tail of the French stocks. It was very clear. The stage was held soft, a rope line formed part of the runway, and this was Stella McCartney’s show. McCartney loves animals. She keeps horses in the English countryside. And she’s at the forefront of cruelty-free fashion. I glanced over to the glassed-in door next to it, and through the glass was a small herd of white horses galloping through the yard.
Stella McCartney
Photo: Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images
The next moment, they were on the stage, seven unbridled Camargue horses, followed by their handler, while several hundred guests, sick, sick and fashionably tired, beamed from their seats with joy. Horses!
Stella McCartney
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
There are many ways to show off your values, and, you have to admit, an equine chorus line is pretty cool. The handler used hand and facial gestures and occasional lashings of the whip to get the ponies to run, back up, raise their hooves, roll, and dart in circles. I was devastated that my dog Murray could only manage to “sit”.
Stella McCartney
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Meanwhile, McCartney sent out a very good collection. Does she want to be upset by the actions of animals? i don’t think so. Her best-in-scene appearance is in simple oversize menswear checks and quilted plaids, with the lustrous new addition of a cropped waistcoat; Black low-rise pants with chain rows on the waist; A plush teddy-bear coat in an appaloosa striped pattern; And bold images of horses on silk tees and sweaters. She paid for their beauty at least once in fashion: in the early 2000s, when she was a designer at Chloé. They certainly evoke memories of McCartney family history. Her late mother, Linda, often featured horses in her photographs. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the lace slip dresses. They are a McCartney tradition, and done well and simply.
Stella McCartney
Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney
Since the European collections began three weeks ago, a few sartorial flags have been waved – for British traditions at Burberry, the daily Italian streetwear show at Bottega Veneta and French chic from Saint Laurent. On Monday, in the Beaux-Arts hall at the Musée d’Orsay, Nicolas Ghesquière explored Parisian style.
Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
But it wasn’t the fairytale look you might expect. It was kaleidoscopic. On a high, scaffolded runway – with a soundtrack that included the sounds of traffic and teeth and heels on the pavement – Ghesquière presented a high-definition view of Paris. The collection ranges from chic (a great-looking white jacket with leather trim on an ottoman fabric and matching seam pants) to edgy (balloon pants with a wrap jacket) to a surprise: a ruffled dress. A high-pile rug, draped over a thick gray knit.
Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Although the exercise itself was fun, there were only a few things to do in this freewheeling set. A lot depends on classic styles – dull woolen coats, worn skirts over laces – which makes sense when you look at how young girls here dress. The show is loaded with accessories as usual: mini boxing bags; Three-color spat boots; nineteen-forty-forties tasteful red-hued low platform ankle-strap shoes; And sight glasses with LED lighting.
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